What GSM Means: Fabric Weight Chart 100–1100 GSM [2026]
Is 180 GSM thin? Is 350 GSM heavy? What every GSM number actually feels like, garment by garment — from a Portuguese factory that cuts all of them.
Pedro Carreira··12 min read![What GSM Means: Fabric Weight Chart 100–1100 GSM [2026]](/_next/image?url=%2Fimages%2Fgenerated%2Fblog%2Fgsm-fabric-weight-chart.webp&w=1920&q=75)
What GSM Means, and Why It Decides How a Garment Feels
GSM means grams per square metre — the weight of one square metre of the fabric. That single number decides more about how a finished garment feels than the colour, the cut, or the logo. 180 GSM is a standard t-shirt. 400 GSM is a premium hoodie. Same cotton, completely different product.
I run a factory in Barcelos, Portugal, and every order that comes through it starts with this number being right or wrong. The fabric weight chart below is the one we actually work from — 100 GSM poplin up to our 1100 GSM double-layered hoodie — with the imperial conversion (oz/yd²) next to every range, because half the brands we quote think in ounces.
Below, each weight range gets a one-line verdict and a description of what it physically feels like in the hand. That is the part no spec sheet gives you.
How GSM Is Measured
A precisely cut 10cm × 10cm fabric sample is weighed on a calibrated scale. The result is multiplied by 100 to give the weight per square metre.
- —A 10cm × 10cm sample weighing 3.5 grams = 350 GSM
- —A 10cm × 10cm sample weighing 1.8 grams = 180 GSM
The measurement is standardised, repeatable, and the universal language between brands, mills, and factories. When we say "350 GSM French Terry," every professional in the supply chain knows exactly what that means.
The GSM Fabric Weight Chart (with oz/yd² Conversion)
This is the whole chart on one screen. The conversion is fixed: 1 oz/yd² = 33.906 g/m², so divide GSM by 33.906 to get ounces. To convert a specific number and estimate how much fabric your order needs, use our fabric calculator.
| GSM | oz/yd² | Fabric | Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100–140 | 2.9–4.1 | Poplin, shirting, voile | Shirt weight — crisp, semi-sheer, not for jersey |
| 140–180 | 4.1–5.3 | Light cotton jersey | Basic tee — thin, breathable, can be see-through under 160 |
| 180–220 | 5.3–6.5 | Mid-weight jersey | 180 GSM = standard tee, thin but not see-through; 220 is the quality benchmark |
| 220–280 | 6.5–8.3 | Heavyweight jersey | Boxy/oversized tee weight — thick enough that customers comment on it |
| 280–350 | 8.3–10.3 | French Terry, light fleece | Standard hoodie and sweatshirt weight — the default request |
| 350–450 | 10.3–13.3 | Heavy French Terry, brushed fleece | Premium hoodie — you feel it on your shoulders |
| 450–580 | 13.3–17.1 | Ultra-heavy fleece | Statement piece — dense, structured, €100+ retail territory |
| 680–1100 | 20.1–32.4 | Double-layered construction | Specialty only — engineered, not off-the-shelf |
100–140 GSM: Lightweight Wovens
Verdict: 100–140 GSM (2.9–4.1 oz/yd²) = shirt weight. Crisp and cool, semi-sheer, never used for jersey garments.
What it is: Cotton poplin, light shirting, voile
How it feels: Thin, crisp, cool against the skin. You can see through it when held to light. Paper-like in the lightest weights.
Products: Formal shirts, blouses, summer dresses, linings
Our fabrics in this range:
- —Cotton Poplin: 100–140 GSM
- —Cotton Oxford: 130–160 GSM
Real-world reference: Think of a well-made dress shirt. That is 110–130 GSM poplin.
140–180 GSM: Lightweight Jersey
Verdict: 140–180 GSM (4.1–5.3 oz/yd²) = basic tee weight. Soft and breathable, but below 160 GSM it can read as see-through.
What it is: Light cotton jersey, basic t-shirt fabric
How it feels: Soft, thin, breathable. Drapes close to the body. You can feel the air through it. Stretches easily.
Products: Basic t-shirts, tank tops, underwear, loungewear, babywear
Our fabrics in this range:
- —Organic Cotton Jersey: 140–180 GSM
- —Recycled Jersey: 160–180 GSM
- —Linen: 150–200 GSM
Real-world reference: The thin t-shirt you sleep in. Most fast-fashion tees are in this range — often at the lower end.
Brand positioning note: At 140–160 GSM, t-shirts can feel insubstantial if the cotton quality is poor. Premium brands typically start at 160 GSM minimum.
180–220 GSM: Mid-Weight Jersey
Verdict: 180 GSM (5.3 oz/yd²) = standard tee — thin but not see-through. 220 GSM (6.5 oz/yd²) is where a t-shirt starts feeling premium.
What it is: Premium t-shirt weight. The standard for quality basics.
How it feels: Substantial but not heavy. You feel the fabric when you put it on — there is real material there. Good opacity (not see-through). Comfortable stretch and recovery.
Products: Premium t-shirts, longsleeves, polo shirts, lightweight casual wear
Our fabrics in this range:
- —Organic Cotton Jersey: 180–220 GSM
- —Waffle Knit: 180–220 GSM
- —Cotton Twill: 200–220 GSM
Real-world reference: A well-made Uniqlo Supima Cotton tee is around 180 GSM. A premium DTC brand tee is typically 200+ GSM. This is the weight where "quality" becomes noticeable to the average consumer.
The sweet spot: 180–200 GSM is where most of our clients start for t-shirts. It is the minimum weight for a t-shirt that feels premium without being heavy.
220–280 GSM: Heavyweight Jersey / Light Fleece
Verdict: 220–280 GSM (6.5–8.3 oz/yd²) = heavyweight tee. Holds its shape on a hanger — this is the oversized/boxy streetwear weight.
What it is: Heavyweight t-shirts, light sweatshirting, structured jersey
How it feels: Real weight in your hand. Structured. Holds its shape on a hanger and on the body. Minimal drape — it sits where you place it.
Products: Heavyweight t-shirts, oversized tees, longsleeves, light crewneck sweatshirts
Our fabrics in this range:
- —Organic Cotton Jersey: 220–280 GSM (heavyweight)
- —Brushed Cotton Jersey: 250 GSM (our Brushed Cotton Tee)
- —French Terry: 280 GSM (lightweight French Terry)
- —Recycled Jersey: 220–260 GSM
Real-world reference: Our 250 GSM Brushed Cotton Tee feels almost like a thin sweatshirt. A Yeezy-style oversized tee is typically 240–280 GSM. These are the t-shirts people describe as "thick" and "quality."
Brand positioning note: The 250+ GSM t-shirt is a statement. It communicates premium without saying a word. This weight range is increasingly popular with streetwear and contemporary brands.
280–350 GSM: Standard Sweatshirt Weight
Verdict: 280–350 GSM (8.3–10.3 oz/yd²) = standard hoodie weight. If a client says "a normal hoodie," this is the range they mean.
What it is: French Terry and light brushed fleece. The core weight for sweatshirts and hoodies.
How it feels: Warm, comfortable, the weight you associate with a good crewneck sweatshirt. French Terry at this weight is breathable; fleece is cosier.
Products: Standard hoodies, crewneck sweatshirts, joggers, zip-up jackets
Our fabrics in this range:
- —French Terry: 280–350 GSM
- —Brushed Fleece: 280–350 GSM
- —Polycotton Fleece: 280–350 GSM
- —Sherpa Cotton: 350 GSM
- —Cotton Canvas: 280–350 GSM
Real-world reference: A Nike Tech Fleece hoodie is approximately 300 GSM. A Carhartt WIP Chase Sweatshirt is around 320 GSM. This is the "default" weight range for casual hoodies and sweatshirts.
The standard: 300–320 GSM French Terry is the most commonly requested fabric weight for hoodies and sweatshirts. It is warm enough for three seasons, light enough for daily wear.
350–450 GSM: Heavyweight Sweatshirt / Premium
Verdict: 350–450 GSM (10.3–13.3 oz/yd²) = heavyweight hoodie. The weight is noticeable on your shoulders the moment you put it on.
What it is: Heavyweight French Terry and brushed fleece. Where "premium" becomes tangible.
How it feels: Substantial. You feel the weight on your shoulders when you put the hoodie on. The fabric has body — it holds its shape, it does not collapse when hung. A customer picks it up in a shop and immediately registers "quality."
Products: Premium hoodies, heavyweight crewnecks, winter sweatshirts, structured joggers, outerwear
Our fabrics in this range:
- —French Terry: 350–450 GSM
- —Brushed Fleece: 350–450 GSM
- —Polycotton Fleece: 350–450 GSM
- —Sherpa Cotton: 350–400 GSM
- —Cotton Canvas: 350–450 GSM (for structured pants and jackets)
Real-world reference: A high-end streetwear hoodie (Stüssy, Aimé Leon Dore, Fear of God Essentials) is typically 380–450 GSM. This weight says "premium" without needing to explain.
Our recommendation: For brands positioning in the €50–100 retail range for hoodies, 380–420 GSM is the sweet spot. The quality is immediately apparent to the customer.
450–580 GSM: Ultra-Heavyweight
Verdict: 450–580 GSM (13.3–17.1 oz/yd²) = ultra-heavyweight. Dense and structured; the weight itself is the selling point.
What it is: The heaviest standard fabrics. Statement pieces.
How it feels: Heavy. Dense. The garment has real presence. Picking up a 500 GSM hoodie is a different experience from picking up a 300 GSM one — the weight difference is dramatic and immediately conveys luxury.
Products: Ultra-premium hoodies, luxury crewnecks, winter outerwear, structured jackets
Our fabrics in this range:
- —French Terry: 450–500 GSM
- —Brushed Fleece: 450–580 GSM
- —Polycotton Fleece: 450–550 GSM
Real-world reference: Heavyweight Yeezy hoodies, luxury Japanese streetwear. These are garments that retail at €100–200+ and the weight is a significant part of the perceived value.
680–1100 GSM: Extreme Weight (Specialty)
Verdict: 680–1100 GSM (20.1–32.4 oz/yd²) = specialty construction. Two fabrics bonded, not one heavy knit. Nothing off-the-shelf reaches this.
What it is: Double-layered construction, extreme heavyweight. Not standard — these are engineered products.
How it feels: Like wearing a blanket. Our 1100 GSM Double-Layered Hoodie is essentially two garments bonded together. The weight is dramatic and intentional.
Products: Our Double-Layered Hoodie (1100 GSM), heavyweight designer jackets (680 GSM)
Real-world reference: There is no mainstream reference. This is specialty territory — products designed to stand apart from everything else on the market.
How GSM Affects Production
Cutting
Heavier fabrics are harder to cut — they require sharper blades and fewer layers per stack. A cutting table might handle 50 layers of 180 GSM jersey but only 20 layers of 500 GSM fleece.
Sewing
Heavier fabrics require stronger needles, higher thread tension, and slower machine speeds. The operators need more experience to handle thick fabric layers at seam intersections (where four or more layers stack up).
Printing
Lighter fabrics (under 200 GSM) can show ink bleed-through. Heavier fabrics absorb ink more evenly and provide a more stable printing surface. DTG quality improves with fabric weight up to about 300 GSM.
Cost
More GSM = more fabric per garment = more raw material cost. A 400 GSM hoodie uses roughly twice the raw cotton of a 200 GSM t-shirt, relative to surface area. Fabric cost scales approximately linearly with GSM.
Choosing the Right GSM for Your Brand
| Brand Positioning | T-Shirt GSM | Hoodie/Sweatshirt GSM |
|---|---|---|
| Budget / Promotional | 140–160 | 260–300 |
| Mid-range | 160–200 | 300–350 |
| Premium | 200–250 | 350–420 |
| Luxury / Streetwear | 250–280 | 420–580 |
The right GSM is not the heaviest — it is the one that matches your brand's positioning, your price point, and your customer's expectations.
For a deeper dive into fabric types across all these weights, read our guide to fabric weights or browse our fabric library. Fabric weight is the first decision in hoodie production — the stage-by-stage guide walks through what happens after the GSM is locked. For other products: t-shirt manufacturing, sweatshirt production, and joggers manufacturing.
At White Cotton, we stock fabrics from 100 GSM poplin to 580 GSM brushed fleece — and our signature 1100 GSM Double-Layered Hoodie for brands that want something nobody else has, produced at low MOQs from 75 pieces per colourway. Request fabric swatches to feel the difference yourself, or learn more about our clothing manufacturing in Portugal.
Common Questions About GSM
Pedro Carreira
Founder of White Cotton, a textile manufacturer in Barcelos, Portugal. Producing custom clothing collections for brands across 15+ countries.
Frequently Asked Questions
180 GSM means one square metre of that fabric weighs 180 grams — a 10cm × 10cm swatch of it weighs 1.8 grams. In imperial that is 5.3 oz/yd². For jersey, 180 GSM is the standard t-shirt weight: thin enough to drape and breathe, thick enough not to be see-through in a solid colour.
Yes — 220 GSM (6.5 oz/yd²) sits at the top of the mid-weight jersey range and is where a t-shirt starts feeling premium rather than basic. It is fully opaque, it has visible structure on a hanger, and it survives repeated washing better than a 160 GSM tee. Most of our clients pricing above the fast-fashion tier specify 200–220 GSM.
The difference is 40 grams per square metre, about 1.2 oz/yd² — roughly 22% more fabric in the same garment. In the hand, 180 GSM drapes close to the body while 220 GSM holds its own shape; 220 is more opaque, feels more substantial, and costs proportionally more in raw material. Both are mid-weight jersey, so the sewing and printing processes are identical.
300 GSM is 8.8 oz/yd², using the fixed conversion of 1 oz/yd² = 33.906 g/m². That puts it in the standard sweatshirt and hoodie band (280–350 GSM), which is the most commonly requested weight range we produce.
A heavyweight hoodie is 350–450 GSM, or 10.3–13.3 oz/yd². Below 350 GSM you are in standard hoodie territory; above 450 GSM the garment becomes ultra-heavyweight and the weight itself turns into the selling point. For brands positioning hoodies in the €50–100 retail range, 380–420 GSM is the range we recommend most often.
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