Understanding Fabric Weights: A Complete Guide for Fashion Brands

Fabric weight refers to the density and thickness of a textile, and it is one of the most important factors when developing a garment. It affects how a piece drapes, how warm it feels, how durable it is, and ultimately how your customer perceives its quality.

There are two standard ways to measure fabric weight: GSM (grams per square metre) and oz/yd² (ounces per square yard). In European manufacturing, GSM is the standard.

GSM stands for grams per square metre. A 10cm × 10cm fabric sample is weighed, and the result is multiplied to calculate the weight per square metre.

The ideal fabric weight depends on your product and your brand's positioning:

For t-shirts:

A 160gsm tee feels basic and promotional. A 180–200gsm tee feels substantial and retail-ready. A 220gsm+ tee enters premium territory — think heavyweight blanks.

For hoodies:

Below 280gsm feels thin. 300–350gsm is the standard for quality retail hoodies. 380–420gsm is where luxury and streetwear brands operate — this is what gives a hoodie that premium, substantial hand-feel.

For shirts:

Oxford and poplin fabrics typically range from 100–160gsm. Heavier oxford (140gsm+) gives a more structured, substantial feel.

Heavier fabrics use more raw material per metre, so they cost more. A 400gsm organic cotton fleece will cost significantly more per metre than a 180gsm jersey. However, the perceived value increase for the end consumer is often disproportionately high — a heavyweight hoodie commands a much higher retail price than a lightweight one.

At White Cotton, we work with fabric weights ranging from 150gsm lightweight jersey to 420gsm heavy fleece. Our most popular weights for hoodies are 360–400gsm, and for t-shirts, 180–220gsm.

We can provide fabric swatches at any weight so you can feel the quality before committing to production. Our minimum order starts at 50 units per style.