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A working lexicon of 114 textile and garment manufacturing terms—from fabric structure and decoration to quality, costing and production.
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Fabric
31 terms
Brushed Fleece
A knitted fabric whose inner surface is mechanically brushed to raise fibres, creating a dense, insulating nap. Brushed fleece typically ranges from 280 to 400 gsm and is the standard interior for premium hoodies and sweatshirts. At White Cotton, we brush in-house to control nap height and softness, ensuring consistent hand feel across production runs.
↗CCanvas
A heavy-duty plain-weave fabric, typically 280-600 gsm, known for exceptional durability and structure. Cotton canvas is used in workwear, tote bags, and outerwear where rigidity and abrasion resistance matter more than drape. Our canvas garments are constructed with reinforced seams to match the fabric's rugged character.
↗Chambray
A lightweight plain-weave fabric woven with a coloured warp and white weft, giving it a characteristic heathered appearance often mistaken for denim. Chambray typically weighs 100-160 gsm, making it ideal for shirts, lightweight jackets, and summer garments. Unlike denim, chambray uses a plain weave rather than twill, resulting in a softer, less structured hand.
↗Corduroy
A ridged fabric with vertical wales (cords) formed by extra filling yarns that are cut to create a soft pile. Wales are measured per inch — pinwale (16-21 wales) for shirts, standard wale (8-14) for trousers, and wide wale (3-6) for outerwear. Corduroy typically ranges from 200-350 gsm and adds texture and warmth to autumn/winter collections.
↗DDenim
A durable twill-weave fabric traditionally made from cotton, woven with indigo-dyed warp and undyed weft yarns. Denim weight ranges from 5 oz (lightweight, ~170 gsm) for shirts to 14+ oz (~475 gsm) for heavy selvedge jeans. The twill construction gives denim its characteristic diagonal ribbing and makes it one of the most hard-wearing apparel fabrics available.
↗EElastane / Spandex
A synthetic fibre with exceptional elasticity, capable of stretching up to 500% of its original length and recovering fully. Typically blended at 2-8% with cotton or polyester to add stretch and shape retention. In garment manufacturing, even a small percentage of elastane dramatically improves fit, comfort, and resistance to bagging at knees and elbows.
↗FFleece
A synthetic or cotton-blend knit fabric with a soft, pile-like surface on one or both sides. Fleece ranges from 200 gsm (microfleece) to 400+ gsm (heavyweight), offering excellent warmth-to-weight ratio. White Cotton produces both polycotton and 100% cotton fleece options — the cotton variants are increasingly popular with brands seeking a more sustainable alternative to petroleum-based fabrics.
↗French Terry
A knit fabric with a smooth face and looped pile interior (unlike fleece, which is brushed). French terry typically weighs 240-350 gsm and is the fabric of choice for premium sweatshirts, joggers, and year-round hoodies. The uncut loops provide moisture absorption and breathability, making it more versatile across seasons than brushed fleece.
↗GGSM
Grams per square metre — the universal measurement of fabric weight in textile manufacturing. GSM ranges from 120 for lightweight summer jerseys to 500+ for heavy outerwear fleece. At White Cotton, we specify GSM for every fabric roll we receive and test incoming shipments to verify suppliers meet tolerance (typically +/- 5%). GSM is the single most important number when specifying fabric for a tech pack.
↗HHand Feel
The tactile sensation of a fabric when touched — encompassing softness, weight, drape, texture, and temperature. Hand feel is subjective but critical; it is the first thing a customer notices when picking up a garment. In manufacturing, hand feel is influenced by fibre type, yarn construction, knit or weave density, and finishing processes like enzyme washing, sanding, or silicone softening.
↗IInterlock
A double-knit fabric where two layers of jersey are knitted together, creating a smooth, identical face on both sides. Interlock is thicker and more stable than single jersey, typically 180-300 gsm, with minimal curl at the edges and excellent drape. It is favoured for polo shirts, childrenswear, and structured t-shirts where a premium weight is desired.
↗JJersey Knit
The most common knit fabric in garment manufacturing — a single-knit construction with a smooth face and looped back. Jersey is lightweight (120-220 gsm), naturally stretchy across the width, and drapes well. It is the standard fabric for t-shirts, dresses, and underwear. White Cotton stocks jersey in organic cotton, conventional cotton, and recycled blends across multiple weight ranges.
↗LLinen
A natural fibre woven from flax stalks, prized for breathability, moisture-wicking, and a distinctive textured drape. Linen is 30% stronger than cotton and softens with each wash. It typically weighs 130-250 gsm for garments. The fabric's natural irregularities — slubs and slight colour variation — are considered desirable character marks, not defects.
↗MModal
A semi-synthetic fibre made from beech tree pulp through a closed-loop chemical process. Modal is 50% more absorbent than cotton, resists shrinkage, and maintains exceptional softness through repeated washing. Commonly blended with cotton or elastane at 140-200 gsm for premium underwear, loungewear, and base layers where a silky hand feel is paramount.
↗OOrganic Cotton
Cotton grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilisers, or genetically modified seeds, certified under standards like GOTS or OCS. Organic cotton uses 88% less water and 62% less energy than conventional cotton. At White Cotton, organic cotton is our most-requested fibre — we source GOTS-certified yarn and can provide full chain-of-custody documentation from field to finished garment.
↗PPiqué
A textured knit or woven fabric characterised by a raised geometric pattern, most commonly a honeycomb or waffle-like surface. Piqué knit (150-240 gsm) is the definitive polo shirt fabric, offering structure, breathability, and a sporty aesthetic. The textured surface also hides minor imperfections better than smooth jersey, making it forgiving in production.
↗Ponte
A thick, double-knit fabric (typically 280-350 gsm) with excellent recovery and a structured drape, often composed of rayon, nylon, and spandex. Ponte bridges the gap between knit comfort and woven structure, making it ideal for tailored trousers, blazers, and skirts that need to hold their shape without a lining or interfacing.
↗Poplin
A tightly woven plain-weave fabric with a smooth, crisp finish, typically 100-150 gsm. Poplin is the standard for dress shirts, button-downs, and lightweight structured garments. Its tight weave gives it a slight lustre and makes it an excellent base for screen printing and embroidery, as the surface holds detail cleanly without distortion.
↗Oxford Cloth
A basketweave fabric where two warp yarns are woven together with two weft yarns, creating a slightly rough, textured surface. Heavier and more casual than poplin (140-200 gsm), oxford cloth is the go-to fabric for button-down shirts and smart-casual wear. The weave structure makes it highly durable and resistant to tearing while remaining breathable.
↗RRecycled Polyester
Polyester fibre made from post-consumer PET bottles or post-industrial polyester waste. Each kilogram of recycled polyester saves approximately 1.5 kg of CO2 compared to virgin polyester. It performs identically to virgin polyester in durability, moisture-wicking, and colourfastness. White Cotton offers recycled polyester blends for brands requiring sustainable performance fabrics, particularly in outerwear and athleisure.
↗Rib Knit
A stretchy knit fabric with alternating raised and lowered rows (ribs) running vertically. Common configurations include 1x1, 2x1, and 2x2 rib. Rib knit is used extensively for cuffs, collars, waistbands, and hem bands on hoodies and sweatshirts, as well as for full garments like fitted tops. Its inherent stretch and recovery make it essential for any garment needing a snug, elastic finish.
↗SSelvedge
The self-finished edge of a fabric where the weft yarn loops back into the weave, preventing fraying. Selvedge denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms (typically 75-80 cm wide) rather than modern projectile looms, producing a tighter, denser fabric. The clean selvedge edge is a mark of quality and is often visible when jeans are cuffed — a detail sought after by premium denim brands.
↗Sherpa
A plush knitted fabric with a deep, curly pile designed to mimic sheepskin. Sherpa typically weighs 300-450 gsm and is used as a lining material in jackets, hoodies, and outerwear or as the primary face fabric in sherpa pullovers. Its high loft traps air efficiently, making it one of the warmest fabric options available for winter collections.
↗TTencel / Lyocell
A cellulose fibre made from sustainably harvested eucalyptus wood pulp using a closed-loop solvent process that recovers 99.7% of the chemicals used. Tencel (Lenzing's brand name for lyocell) is softer than cotton, naturally moisture-wicking, and biodegradable. It blends beautifully with cotton for a luxurious hand feel and is increasingly specified by eco-conscious brands building premium basics.
↗Terry Cloth
A woven or knit fabric with uncut loops on one or both sides, originally developed for towelling. In apparel, terry cloth (250-400 gsm) is used for robes, poolside wear, and retro-inspired fashion pieces. It is distinct from French terry, which is a knit with loops on only the interior — terry cloth has loops on the exterior face, giving it a more textured, absorbent surface.
↗Twill
A weave pattern characterised by diagonal parallel ribs, created by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more. Twill weaves (including denim, gabardine, and chino cloth) are more durable than plain weaves of the same weight because the longer yarn floats distribute stress more evenly. Cotton twill at 200-300 gsm is the standard for chinos, workwear, and structured jackets.
↗VVelour
A plush knit fabric with a dense, short pile surface that mimics velvet but with more stretch and drape. Velour is typically 220-320 gsm and is used in tracksuits, loungewear, and fashion-forward streetwear. The pile is created by shearing the loops of a terry knit, producing a smooth, lustrous surface that catches light directionally.
↗Viscose
A semi-synthetic fibre made from wood pulp (usually bamboo or beech) dissolved in chemicals to create a cellulose solution that is extruded into filaments. Viscose has a beautiful drape and silk-like lustre at a fraction of silk's cost. It is widely used in dresses, blouses, and linings. However, conventional viscose production is chemically intensive — brands seeking greener alternatives should consider lyocell or modal.
↗WWaffle Knit
A textured knit fabric with a three-dimensional grid pattern resembling a waffle iron. The recessed squares trap air for insulation while keeping the fabric lightweight (180-280 gsm). Waffle knit is used in thermal underlayers, henleys, and casual tops. Its distinct texture adds visual interest and is increasingly popular in streetwear and contemporary basics collections.
↗Warp
The set of lengthwise yarns held under tension on a loom through which the weft is woven. Warp yarns run parallel to the selvedge and are typically stronger and more tightly twisted than weft yarns, as they must withstand the stress of the weaving process. In fabric specification, warp direction determines the grain line used in pattern cutting.
↗Weft
The crosswise yarns woven through the warp on a loom, also called the fill or pick. The weft passes over and under the warp yarns according to the weave pattern — plain, twill, or satin. Weft yarn choice (fibre, colour, thickness) directly influences fabric drape, texture, and appearance. In denim, for example, the undyed white weft creates the characteristic fading pattern with wear.
↗Production
28 terms
Blind Hem
A hemming technique where the stitch is virtually invisible from the garment's face, achieved by catching only a few threads of the outer fabric with each stitch. Blind hems are standard on dress trousers, skirts, and formalwear where visible topstitching would detract from the clean finish. The technique requires a specialised blind-hem machine or skilled hand-finishing.
↗Bulk Production
The full-scale manufacturing run that follows sample approval, producing the total order quantity. At White Cotton, bulk production begins only after the pre-production sample is signed off, ensuring all fabric, trims, construction, and measurements match the approved spec. Typical bulk lead times are 4-6 weeks depending on order volume, fabric availability, and decoration complexity.
↗CMT (Cut, Make, Trim)
A manufacturing service model where the factory handles cutting, sewing, and trimming/finishing, but the client supplies the fabric and trims. CMT is cost-effective for brands that source their own materials and want control over fabric selection while outsourcing the construction. White Cotton offers CMT alongside full-package manufacturing, giving brands flexibility based on their supply chain maturity.
↗Coverlock
A stitch type produced by a coverstitch machine, creating two or three parallel needle lines on the face and a looped seam on the back. Coverlock is the standard for hemming t-shirts, activewear, and knit garments because it allows the fabric to stretch without the thread breaking. The distinctive double-needle topstitch visible on most t-shirt hems is a coverlock stitch.
↗Cut and Sew
The process of creating garments from raw fabric — cutting pattern pieces from fabric rolls and sewing them together. Cut-and-sew manufacturing produces fully custom garments (as opposed to decorating pre-made blanks). Every garment White Cotton produces is cut and sewn in our Barcelos facility, giving brands complete control over fit, fabric, and construction details.
↗Cutting
The production stage where fabric is cut into pattern pieces according to the marker layout. Industrial cutting uses either straight-knife machines, band knives, or CNC automated cutters for precision. Accurate cutting is critical — even 2mm deviation multiplied across a full size run can cause significant fit issues. Our cutting room processes up to 200 layers of fabric simultaneously using lay-and-cut methodology.
↗Fit Sample
A sample garment produced specifically to evaluate fit, proportions, and construction accuracy against the tech pack. Fit samples are typically made in a base size (usually M) and assessed on a fit model or dress form. Corrections from fit sample review are incorporated into the pattern before grading to the full size range. Most orders require 1-2 fit sample rounds before approval.
↗Flatlock
A seam construction where two fabric edges are butted together and joined with a flat, wide stitch that lies completely smooth against the skin. Flatlock seams eliminate bulk and reduce chafing, making them the preferred construction for activewear, underwear, and babywear. The seam is created by spreading open an overlock stitch, producing a distinctive ladder pattern on the face.
↗FOB (Free on Board)
A pricing and shipping term indicating that the quoted price includes the goods delivered to a specified port or point of shipment. Beyond that point, the buyer assumes freight and insurance costs. In garment manufacturing, FOB pricing is the most common quoting method — it includes fabric, trims, production, finishing, packing, and local transport to port, but not international shipping or duties.
↗Full-Package Manufacturing
A service model where the factory handles everything from fabric sourcing through to finished, packed garments ready for shipping. Full-package (also called FPP) eliminates the need for the brand to manage separate fabric suppliers, trim vendors, and logistics. White Cotton specialises in full-package production — we source fabric, cut, sew, decorate, label, fold, polybag, and ship directly to your warehouse or customers.
↗Garment Construction
The overall method by which a garment is assembled — encompassing seam types, stitch classes, reinforcements, hem finishes, and the order of operations on the production line. A garment's construction specification is documented in the tech pack and directly impacts durability, fit, appearance, and production cost. Different garment categories require vastly different construction approaches.
↗Grading
The process of scaling a base-size pattern up and down to create a complete size range. Grading rules define how much each measurement point increases or decreases between sizes — for example, a 2 cm chest increment between S and M. Proper grading ensures consistent fit proportions across all sizes. At White Cotton, we grade to your size chart or apply standard European or US grade rules.
↗Landed Cost
The total cost of a garment when it arrives at your warehouse — including FOB price, international freight, import duties, customs brokerage, and local delivery. Landed cost is the true cost of goods and the figure brands should use when calculating margins. For European brands manufacturing within Portugal, landed cost is essentially the ex-factory price plus domestic shipping, with zero import duties.
↗Lay Plan
The specification for how fabric is spread on the cutting table before cutting — including number of layers (plies), fabric direction (face up, face to face), and lay length. A well-planned lay optimises cutting efficiency and ensures pattern pieces respect fabric grain, nap direction, and print repeat. Lay planning works in conjunction with marker making to minimise waste.
↗Lead Time
The total elapsed time from order confirmation to delivery of finished goods. In garment manufacturing, lead time includes fabric sourcing (2-4 weeks), sample approval (1-2 weeks), production (3-6 weeks), and shipping. White Cotton's typical lead time for a standard order is 6-8 weeks from approved sample to delivery, with expedited options available for urgent drops.
↗Marker Making
The process of arranging all pattern pieces for all sizes onto a layout (marker) that fits the fabric width, maximising material utilisation. A skilled marker maker or CAD software can achieve 85-92% fabric utilisation. Every percentage point of improvement matters at scale — on a 10,000-unit order, a 2% utilisation gain can save hundreds of metres of fabric and thousands of euros.
↗MOQ (Minimum Order Quantity)
The smallest number of units a manufacturer will produce per style, colour, or size. MOQs exist because of setup costs — pattern making, marker making, fabric minimums, and machine calibration have fixed costs that must be distributed across units to maintain viable pricing. White Cotton's MOQs start from 200 units per style/colour, which is among the most accessible in European manufacturing.
↗NNeedle Gauge
A measurement system indicating the number of knitting needles per unit of width on a knitting machine, determining the fineness or coarseness of the knit. Higher gauge numbers produce finer knits — 18-gauge for lightweight jersey, 12-gauge for standard sweatshirt fabric, 7-gauge for chunky knits. Gauge directly affects fabric weight, stitch definition, and the types of garments that can be produced.
↗Overlock
A stitch type produced by a serger machine that simultaneously trims the fabric edge and encases it in thread, preventing fraying. Overlock stitches (3-thread for edge finishing, 4 or 5-thread for seaming) are the most common stitch type in garment manufacturing — virtually every internal seam in a t-shirt, hoodie, or trouser is overlocked. The stitch allows stretch, making it ideal for knit fabrics.
↗Pattern Making
The process of creating the flat templates (patterns) from which fabric is cut to construct a garment. Pattern makers translate a designer's sketch and measurements into precise 2D shapes that, when sewn together, form the intended 3D garment. Modern pattern making uses CAD software (Gerber, Lectra, Optitex) alongside traditional draping and flat-pattern techniques. It is one of the most skilled roles in manufacturing.
↗Pre-Production Sample (PPS)
The final sample made with actual production fabric, trims, labels, and construction methods before bulk manufacturing begins. The PPS is the brand's last opportunity to approve or request changes — once signed off, it becomes the reference standard against which all bulk units are inspected. At White Cotton, we require written PPS approval before cutting any bulk fabric.
↗Production Run
A single continuous manufacturing cycle for a specific style, from cutting through to packing. Production runs are planned to maximise efficiency — grouping similar fabrics, colours, and constructions reduces changeover time. Run length is determined by order quantity, and our production line is configured to handle runs from 200 to 10,000+ units per style while maintaining consistent quality.
↗Sample Development
The iterative process of creating prototype garments to refine design, fit, fabric, and construction before committing to bulk production. A typical development cycle includes a concept sample, fit sample, and pre-production sample — each round incorporating feedback and corrections. Sample development is where most manufacturing problems are caught and solved, saving significant cost and time versus fixing issues in bulk.
↗Seam Allowance
The area between the fabric edge and the stitching line — the extra fabric required to create a seam. Standard seam allowances range from 6mm for overlocked knit seams to 15mm for woven garments. Seam allowance must be consistent throughout cutting and sewing; variation leads to fit discrepancies. Patterns always include seam allowance, and it is specified in the tech pack for each seam type.
↗SPI (Stitches Per Inch)
The number of stitches in one inch of seam — a key quality specification in garment manufacturing. Higher SPI creates stronger, tighter seams but slows production. Typical SPI ranges: 8-10 for overlock seams on knitwear, 10-12 for woven garment seams, and 4-7 for decorative topstitching. SPI is checked during inline quality inspection and must match the tech pack specification within +/- 1 stitch.
↗Spreading
The process of laying fabric in multiple layers (plies) on the cutting table prior to cutting. Spreading can be done manually or with automated spreading machines that control tension, alignment, and layer count. Proper spreading ensures all layers are wrinkle-free, correctly tensioned, and aligned at the selvedge. A typical spread for a medium order might be 50-150 layers of fabric.
↗Tech Pack
The comprehensive technical document that specifies everything a factory needs to manufacture a garment: flat sketches, measurements, fabric and trim details, construction methods, colourways, labelling, and packaging. A complete tech pack eliminates ambiguity and reduces sampling rounds. White Cotton sells thirteen production-ready tech packs — one per garment type, 26 to 27 pages each, graded XS to XXL with tolerances — and can refine an existing pack from a reference garment or detailed brief.
↗Thread Count
The number of threads per square inch of woven fabric, counted by adding warp and weft threads together. While thread count is most commonly associated with bed linens (200-800 TC), it is also relevant in shirting and lightweight woven garments where fabric density affects hand feel, opacity, and durability. Higher thread count generally means a smoother, more refined fabric — up to a point.
↗Decoration
17 terms
3D Puff Embroidery
An embroidery technique where foam is placed beneath the stitches, then the thread is sewn over it to create a raised, three-dimensional effect. The foam (typically 3mm thick) is perforated by the needle and any excess is torn away after stitching. 3D puff is most popular on caps and streetwear, where it adds a premium, tactile dimension to logos and text that flat embroidery cannot match.
↗AAppliqué
A decoration technique where a piece of fabric is cut to shape and sewn or bonded onto a garment to create a design. Appliqué can be combined with embroidery (satin-stitch borders are common) for a layered, premium look. It is particularly effective for large logos where full embroidery would be too dense and heavy. Varsity-style lettering and patches are classic appliqué applications.
↗Chenille
A textured embroidery technique using looped chain-stitch embroidery that is then cut to create a fuzzy, velvet-like pile surface. Chenille is the signature look of varsity letters and letterman jackets. Producing chenille requires a specialised embroidery machine (Cornely or similar) and skilled operators. It is frequently combined with felt appliqué for the classic American collegiate aesthetic.
↗Digitising
The process of converting artwork into a stitch file (typically .DST format) that an embroidery machine can read. A digitiser maps each element of the design — fill areas, outlines, text — and assigns stitch types, directions, densities, and underlay. Quality digitising is critical: poor digitising causes thread breaks, puckering, registration issues, and designs that look nothing like the original artwork.
↗Discharge Printing
A screen printing technique that removes the dye from the fabric rather than laying ink on top, producing an ultra-soft print with zero hand (no tactile difference between printed and unprinted areas). Discharge works best on 100% cotton, dark-coloured garments and uses a chemical agent activated by heat to bleach out the fabric dye and optionally replace it with a new colour. The result is a vintage, worn-in feel from day one.
↗DTF (Direct to Film)
A digital printing method where artwork is printed onto a PET film, coated with hot-melt adhesive powder, cured, and then heat-pressed onto the garment. DTF works on virtually any fabric colour or type, requires no pre-treatment, and produces vibrant, opaque prints. It bridges the gap between DTG's versatility and screen printing's opacity, making it increasingly popular for small-to-medium runs.
↗DTG (Direct to Garment)
A digital printing process where water-based inks are jetted directly onto the fabric surface using modified inkjet technology. DTG excels at photographic and complex multi-colour designs with no minimum quantity — ideal for print-on-demand, samples, and limited editions. On 100% cotton, DTG produces a soft hand feel. Limitations include slower speed than screen printing and higher per-unit cost at volume.
↗Embroidery
The art of stitching thread directly into fabric using industrial multi-head machines to create durable, textured designs. At White Cotton, we run multi-head Tajima machines capable of up to 15 colours per design. Embroidery is the gold standard for brand logos, offering unmatched durability and a premium look that no printing method can replicate. Stitch counts typically range from 5,000 for small chest logos to 50,000+ for large back designs.
↗Flock Printing
A decoration technique where short fibre particles (flock) are electrostatically applied to an adhesive-coated surface, creating a velvety, raised texture. The adhesive is applied through a screen in the desired design, then flock fibres (typically 0.5-2mm nylon) are shot onto the surface using an electrostatic charge. Flock printing adds a distinctive tactile premium to logos and graphics, popular in streetwear and fashion.
↗Foil Printing
A decoration method that applies metallic or holographic foil to fabric using heat and pressure over a screen-printed adhesive base. Foil printing produces a high-shine, reflective finish in gold, silver, copper, and specialty colours. The technique requires precise temperature and pressure control — too little and the foil lifts, too much and it dulls. Best used for accent elements rather than large coverage areas.
↗Heat Transfer
A broad category of decoration methods where a design is printed onto a carrier material (transfer paper, vinyl, or film) and then applied to the garment using heat and pressure. Heat transfer encompasses vinyl transfers, screen-printed transfers, digital transfers, and DTF. Advantages include precise placement, multi-location decoration in one pressing, and the ability to decorate difficult areas like seams, zippers, and pockets.
↗PMS / Pantone Matching
The process of mixing inks or dyes to precisely match a specific Pantone Matching System colour reference. PMS codes provide a universal colour language between brands and manufacturers — specifying PMS 186 C ensures the same red regardless of who produces it. At White Cotton, we match thread colours, ink colours, fabric dyes, and trim colours to your PMS references, with lab dips provided for approval on critical colourways.
↗Plastisol Ink
A PVC-based screen printing ink that sits on top of the fabric surface rather than being absorbed into it. Plastisol is the most widely used screen printing ink due to its opacity, colour vibrancy, ease of use, and ability to print on any fabric colour. The ink cures at 160°C and produces a slightly raised, rubbery hand feel. For a softer finish, brands increasingly request water-based or discharge alternatives.
↗Screen Printing
A printing technique where ink is pushed through a mesh stencil (screen) onto the fabric surface, one colour at a time. Screen printing is the most cost-effective method for large runs (500+ units) with limited colours (1-6). Each colour requires a separate screen, so setup costs are fixed per design. At White Cotton, we screen print with plastisol, water-based, and discharge inks depending on the desired finish and fabric.
↗Stitch Count
The total number of stitches in an embroidered design — the primary factor determining embroidery pricing and production time. A small chest logo might be 5,000-8,000 stitches; a full back design can exceed 50,000. Higher stitch counts mean longer run times per unit and more thread consumption. Stitch count is determined during digitising and can be optimised by simplifying design details or using applique for large fill areas.
↗Sublimation
A digital printing process where dye is transferred from paper to fabric using heat and pressure, causing the dye to convert from solid to gas and bond permanently with the polyester fibres. Sublimation produces photographic-quality, all-over prints with zero hand feel — the dye becomes part of the fabric. The limitation: it only works on white or light-coloured polyester or polyester-coated substrates.
↗Water-Based Ink
A screen printing ink that uses water as the solvent, allowing it to penetrate the fabric fibres rather than sitting on top like plastisol. The result is an extremely soft hand feel with no perceptible print texture — the design feels like part of the fabric. Water-based inks are more environmentally friendly than plastisol but require more skill to print, work best on light-coloured 100% cotton, and have a more muted, vintage appearance.
↗Business
15 terms
Blank Garment
An undecorated, unbranded garment produced in bulk quantities and sold to brands, decorators, or retailers for customisation. Blanks are the foundation of the decorated apparel industry — they are screen printed, embroidered, or DTG printed with custom designs. White Cotton manufactures premium blanks for brands and through our GenuineBlanks.com B2B platform, offering cuts and fabrics beyond mass-market wholesale.
↗Brand Development
The process of building a clothing brand from concept to market — including defining the brand identity, designing the collection, developing tech packs, sampling, and setting up production. As a full-package manufacturer, White Cotton works with emerging brands at every stage, from helping first-time founders translate mood boards into manufacturable garments to scaling established brands into new product categories.
↗Capsule Collection
A small, curated range of garments (typically 4-12 styles) designed to work together as a cohesive wardrobe. Capsule collections are strategically limited in scope, making them ideal for brand launches, seasonal drops, and collaborations. From a manufacturing perspective, capsules are efficient to produce because they often share fabrics and trims across styles, reducing sourcing complexity and MOQ pressure.
↗Colorway
A specific colour combination or palette in which a garment style is offered. A single hoodie design produced in black, heather grey, and navy represents three colourways. Each colourway may require separate fabric dyeing, thread matching, and label production. MOQs typically apply per colourway — offering too many colours on small orders increases per-unit cost due to fragmented production runs.
↗Drop Shipping vs Manufacturing
Two fundamentally different business models in apparel. Drop shipping uses pre-made, print-on-demand products shipped directly from a third party — low risk, low margin, zero brand differentiation. Manufacturing (cut-and-sew) creates custom garments from scratch — higher investment and MOQs, but full control over quality, fit, fabric, and branding. Brands that grow beyond drop shipping typically transition to manufacturing for better margins and product uniqueness.
↗DTC (Direct to Consumer)
A business model where brands sell directly to end customers through their own channels (e-commerce, pop-ups, owned retail) without wholesale intermediaries. DTC brands capture full retail margin but bear the full cost of marketing and fulfilment. Manufacturing for DTC requires flexibility — smaller initial runs, faster reorders, and the ability to scale up quickly when products go viral.
↗Line Sheet
A sales document presenting a brand's collection to wholesale buyers, showing each style with a product image, available colourways, size range, fabric composition, wholesale price, and MOQs. Line sheets are the essential tool for B2B sales at trade shows and in showrooms. They are distinct from lookbooks in being purely commercial — no lifestyle imagery, just the information a buyer needs to place an order.
↗Lookbook
A curated visual presentation of a clothing collection, typically featuring styled photography that communicates the brand's aesthetic, mood, and target customer. Lookbooks serve both B2B (showing buyers how pieces work together) and B2C (marketing content for e-commerce and social media). In manufacturing, the lookbook is often produced from the same sample run used for fit approval, before bulk production begins.
↗Private Label
A manufacturing arrangement where a factory produces garments that are branded, labelled, and sold under the client's own brand name. The client controls the design, branding, and marketing; the manufacturer handles production. Private label is White Cotton's core service — we produce garments that go to market under hundreds of different brand names, each with their own labels, hangtags, and packaging.
↗Size Grading
The systematic scaling of garment measurements across a size range, defined by a grading table that specifies the incremental change at each measurement point between consecutive sizes. For example, a 5 cm chest increment from M to L, but only a 2 cm sleeve length increment. Size grading rules vary by market, brand, and target customer — there is no universal standard.
↗Size Run
The complete range of sizes offered for a garment style, and the quantity breakdown across those sizes (also called a size ratio or size curve). A typical size run might be XS-S-M-L-XL in a ratio of 1-2-3-2-1, meaning for every 9 units, 3 are Medium. The size run directly impacts fabric yield calculations, cutting efficiency, and total production cost. Getting the ratio right minimises deadstock.
↗SKU
Stock Keeping Unit — a unique alphanumeric code assigned to each distinct product variant (combination of style, colour, and size). A single hoodie design in 3 colours and 5 sizes generates 15 SKUs. SKU counts matter in manufacturing because they determine labelling complexity, inventory management, and packing requirements. More SKUs means more changeovers and higher operational overhead.
↗Sourcing
The process of finding and selecting suppliers for fabrics, trims, components, and manufacturing services. Sourcing encompasses supplier research, price negotiation, quality evaluation, sample ordering, and supply chain management. White Cotton handles all sourcing as part of our full-package service — we maintain relationships with certified fabric mills across Portugal, Turkey, and India to offer competitive pricing and reliable supply.
↗White Label
A production model where a manufacturer creates standardised garments from their existing catalogue, and brands purchase them with their own labels and branding applied. Unlike private label (fully custom), white label uses pre-existing patterns and fabrics, dramatically reducing lead times and development costs. White Cotton's GenuineBlanks range offers premium white-label blanks that can be branded, decorated, and shipped within weeks.
↗Wholesale
The sale of goods in bulk at reduced prices to retailers, distributors, or other businesses for resale. Wholesale pricing is typically 40-55% of retail price. In apparel, wholesale requires larger production volumes, consistent quality, established size grading, and the ability to fulfil reorders. Manufacturing partners like White Cotton play a critical role in enabling brands to meet wholesale delivery schedules and quality standards.
↗Quality
11 terms
AQL (Acceptable Quality Level)
A statistical sampling system (defined by ISO 2859) used to determine how many units to inspect from a production batch and the maximum number of defects allowed for the batch to pass. AQL 2.5 is the industry standard for garments — in a 1,000-unit order, a random sample of 80 units is inspected, and the batch fails if more than 5 units have defects. White Cotton applies AQL 2.5 on all orders unless a stricter level is specified.
↗Colourfastness
A fabric's resistance to colour change or colour transfer when exposed to washing, light, perspiration, rubbing, or other environmental factors. Colourfastness is measured on a 1-5 grey scale, where 5 indicates no colour change. Testing standards include ISO 105 (washing), ISO 105-B02 (light), and ISO 105-X12 (rubbing). Dark colours and reactive dyes require particularly rigorous testing to ensure they do not bleed or fade prematurely.
↗Dimensional Stability
A fabric's ability to maintain its original dimensions after washing, drying, and wearing. Poor dimensional stability results in shrinkage or growth, causing garments to change size unpredictably. Testing involves measuring a marked fabric sample before and after controlled washing/drying cycles. Acceptable shrinkage for most garments is within +/- 3% in both warp and weft directions.
↗Final Inspection
The last quality check performed on finished, packed goods before shipment. Final inspection follows the AQL sampling method and checks measurements, construction, decoration quality, labelling accuracy, folding, and packing against the approved PPS and tech pack. At White Cotton, no order ships without a passed final inspection report — it is the last gate between our factory and your customers.
↗Inline Inspection
Quality checks performed during the production process — typically at cutting, after sewing, and during finishing — rather than only at the end. Inline inspection catches defects early when they can be corrected without reworking or scrapping entire units. Our quality team checks measurements, stitch quality, seam alignment, and fabric defects at multiple stages throughout every production run.
↗Pilling
The formation of small, tangled balls of fibre (pills) on a fabric surface caused by abrasion during wear and washing. Pilling is more common in fabrics with loose fibres or short staple lengths — cheap polyester fleece is notorious for it. Pilling resistance is tested using a Martindale or ICI pilling box and rated 1-5. Quality fabrics with combed cotton, longer staple fibres, or anti-pilling treatments rate 3-5.
↗QQuality Control
The systematic process of ensuring manufactured garments meet specified standards for measurements, construction, appearance, and performance. Quality control encompasses incoming fabric inspection, inline production checks, final AQL inspection, and laboratory testing. At White Cotton, QC is embedded in every stage of production — not bolted on at the end — because preventing defects is always cheaper than detecting them.
↗Seam Slippage
A defect where the yarns in a fabric pull apart at a seam under stress, creating visible gaps between the stitching line and the fabric threads. Seam slippage is common in low-thread-count or loosely woven fabrics and is tested by applying force perpendicular to the seam. Prevention methods include using appropriate seam allowances, correct needle size, proper stitch density, and choosing fabrics with adequate yarn-to-yarn friction.
↗Shrinkage
The reduction in fabric or garment dimensions after washing and drying, expressed as a percentage. Cotton knits commonly shrink 3-8% if not pre-treated. In manufacturing, shrinkage is managed through pre-shrinking processes (sanforisation for wovens, compacting for knits) and by building shrinkage allowances into patterns. Our tech packs specify target shrinkage, and incoming fabric is tested before entering production.
↗Tensile Strength
The maximum pulling force a fabric can withstand before breaking, measured in newtons using a tensile testing machine (ISO 13934). Tensile strength varies dramatically by fabric — a lightweight jersey might break at 200N while canvas exceeds 800N. In garment manufacturing, tensile strength matters most at stress points: armholes, crotch seams, pocket attachments, and button areas. Reinforcement stitching is added at these points on quality garments.
↗Wash Test
A laboratory or controlled test where fabric or finished garments are subjected to repeated wash-and-dry cycles to evaluate shrinkage, colourfastness, pilling, appearance retention, and print/embroidery durability. White Cotton performs wash tests on all new fabrics and decoration methods before approving them for production. Results are documented and shared with clients as part of the quality assurance process.
↗Sustainability
12 terms
BCI (Better Cotton Initiative)
A global non-profit that promotes measurably better standards in cotton farming — reducing water use, improving soil health, and ensuring fair labour practices. BCI cotton is not organic but is grown under sustainability guidelines that represent a significant improvement over conventional cotton. BCI accounts for over 20% of global cotton production, making it more accessible and affordable than certified organic cotton for brands at scale.
↗Carbon Footprint
The total greenhouse gas emissions caused by the production, use, and disposal of a garment, measured in CO2 equivalent. A conventional cotton t-shirt generates approximately 7 kg of CO2 across its lifecycle. Manufacturing in Portugal reduces the carbon footprint for European brands by eliminating the long-haul shipping from Asia — a container from Barcelos to London produces roughly 90% less transport emissions than one from Dhaka.
↗Circular Fashion
A design and production philosophy where garments are created with their entire lifecycle in mind — designed for durability, repairability, and eventual recycling or composting. Circular fashion rejects the linear take-make-dispose model. Manufacturing decisions that support circularity include using mono-materials (easier to recycle), avoiding mixed-fibre blends, and designing for disassembly. It is moving from niche concept to mainstream industry expectation.
↗Deadstock
Unsold finished goods or unused raw materials that remain in inventory — including fabric rolls, cut pieces, and finished garments that were overproduced or never sold. In sustainable fashion, some brands specifically source deadstock fabrics to reduce waste, though this is debated as it can incentivise overproduction. At a manufacturing level, minimising deadstock through accurate demand forecasting, precise cutting, and right-sized MOQs is a core sustainability practice.
↗Fair Trade
A certification and trading system that ensures producers in developing countries receive fair prices, safe working conditions, and community development premiums. Fair Trade certified garments guarantee that workers throughout the supply chain were paid living wages and worked in safe conditions. While White Cotton is a European manufacturer with full labour law compliance, we can source Fair Trade certified raw materials for brands requiring end-to-end ethical sourcing.
↗GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard)
The world's leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibres, covering every stage from raw material harvesting through manufacturing, labelling, and trading. GOTS certification requires a minimum of 70% organic fibre, prohibits toxic chemicals, mandates wastewater treatment, and enforces fair labour practices. It is the gold standard that brands reference when claiming organic credentials — a GOTS label on a garment certifies the entire supply chain.
↗ISO 9001
An international standard for quality management systems that specifies requirements for consistently providing products and services that meet customer and regulatory requirements. ISO 9001 certification demonstrates that a manufacturer has documented processes, trained personnel, systematic quality control, and continuous improvement practices. It is often a prerequisite for working with larger brands and retailers.
↗Nearshoring
The practice of relocating manufacturing from distant, low-cost countries to geographically closer facilities. For European brands, nearshoring means manufacturing in Portugal, Turkey, or Morocco instead of Bangladesh, China, or Vietnam. Benefits include shorter lead times (4-6 weeks vs 12-16), lower minimum orders, easier quality oversight, reduced carbon emissions from shipping, and tariff-free trade within the EU. White Cotton in Barcelos is a nearshoring partner for brands across Europe.
↗OEKO-TEX
An independent testing and certification system for textiles, ensuring products are free from harmful substances at every stage of production. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 is the most common certification — it tests for over 100 substances including formaldehyde, heavy metals, pesticides, and allergenic dyes. OEKO-TEX certification gives brands and consumers confidence that a garment is safe for direct skin contact, including for babies and children.
↗Organic Certification
Third-party verification that textile raw materials were grown and processed according to organic standards — no synthetic pesticides, no GMO seeds, and meeting soil and water management requirements. Key certifications include GOTS (covers entire supply chain), OCS (Organic Content Standard, covers chain of custody), and national organic labels. Certification requires annual audits and adds cost, but it is the only credible way to substantiate organic claims.
↗Sustainable Sourcing
The practice of selecting raw materials and suppliers based on environmental and social criteria alongside cost and quality. Sustainable sourcing encompasses choosing organic or recycled fibres, working with certified mills, minimising transport distances, ensuring fair labour conditions, and reducing chemical use. White Cotton prioritises European fabric mills with environmental certifications, keeping our supply chain short, transparent, and auditable.
↗ZZero Waste Cutting
A pattern engineering approach where garment pieces are designed to interlock on the marker like a jigsaw puzzle, eliminating fabric waste entirely. Conventional cutting produces 15-20% waste; zero-waste design reduces this to near zero. While true zero-waste is impractical for all garment types, the principle drives innovation in marker making, modular design, and using offcuts for smaller components like pockets, facings, and trim.
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